Stirring the Pot: Volume 3: DIY Trekking

After doing the Santa Cruz trek we felt ready to ditch the guides and donkeys and head out on our own backpacking trip. First we heard of a recommendation for a lightly travelled area from another traveller at the California Cafe. After getting more advice we decided on a route starting in the Quilcayhaunca Quebrada, going over a 5,000 meter pass, and going out the Cojup Quebrada. Next we found a place to rent some gear: tent, stove, pots, and sleeping pads. Finally we went shopping for food, and quickly realized that normal backpacking food isn´t very easy to find in Peru. We made due with Snickers, Ramen, oatmeal, and PB&Js.

We started at the trailhead for Lake Churup and soon entered the Quilcayhaunca Quebrada. It was beautiful. A perfectly glacier carved, U-shaped valley that was flat in the middle from sediment deposits. The walking was mellow and only slightly uphill. We found a great spot to camp near the end of the valley, and set up camp just before some afternoon rain came.

The next day we started for the pass and were quickly climbing switchbacks out of the valley. The switchbacks lead us to an open valley and the trail dissappeared. We were told that the route finding to the pass was tricky. We followed the advice we had recieved in town (or so we thought) and soon we were gaining elevation and breathing harder and harder. Finally we reached a ridge with a view and realized we were not aiming for the pass we were looking for. Instead we were looking at a steep, snow covered moutain col. We took a break and enjoyed the spectacular view for a bit. Then we tried traversing to the correct pass, and quickly found that this was impossible. The only way to get to the pass would be to go way down, and way back up! We made a unanamous decision to head back down to the Quilcayhuanca and camp the night at a more comfortable, lower elevation. The hike down ended being nearly as difficult as going up. The route finding was difficult: weaving through soggy marshes and steep rocky sections. We finally made it back to camp and were exhausted.

Our final day we only needed to walk out the Quilcayhuanca Quebrada. We were treated with beautiful weather. The morning was incredible... see poem blog. We enjoyed the hike, the views, and the sunshine. Before long we were back at our room at Caroline Lodging in Huaraz, and taking some much needed showers.

It ended up being a great three days adventuring in a different part of the Cordillera Blanca. It was nice to be alone in the wilderness. The wilderness in Peru, in many ways, is similar to the US or anywhere else in the world. It was a nice little break to feel at home in the mountains and take a break from the cities of Peru.